Civita di Bagnoregio – The Dying City

So a few weeks ago, while we were in the small town of Selvacava where my father was born, wondering what to do next, I had the brilliant idea of driving to Civita di Bagnoregio, a sort of “ghost town” in the lovely province of Viterbo, north of Rome. Not only was it 3 hours away but it was a very hot summer day, in the 90’s. I have to admit, it was worth it.

Civita di Bagnoregio, also known as “La Citta Che Muore”, or “The Dying City”, is an ancient town in an area called Tuscia, in the Tiber Valley, which was first settled by the Etruscans who chose this area because of the landscape – it is very hilly which made it easier to defend against invaders. It is also the birthplace of St. Bonaventure, a Franciscan monk born during the Middle Ages who became Cardinal and Bishop of Albano.

Civita di Bagnoregio, located in the Tiber Valley

Tiber Valley

When the Etruscans settled here and in the surrounding towns, they built their fortressed towns on these hills made of “tuff”, a porous volcanic rock, and fragile clay, which unfortunately over the centuries have either broken off bit by bit due to landslides and earthquakes, or worn away from the rain. Many of the buildings in Civita are long gone and the land continues to erode, which is why the town is empty except for tourists and a few people who still live there year round, and is on the list of “100 of the Most Endangered Sites”. Thanks to the efforts of the mayor of Civita and the main town of Bagnoregio, tourists are now required to pay a small fee to cross the footbridge which is used to help preserve the town’s beauty. The regional government of Lazio has also pledged to invest in preserving this important site.

Looking towards the comune of Lubriano from Civita di Bagnoregio

Looking towards the comune of Lubriano from Civita di Bagnoregio

The drive to the province of Viterbo from Selvacava is a long one on the Autostrada A1, which crisscrosses from Lazio into Umbria, but once you get off the Autostrada the road cuts through the peaceful countryside dotted with picturesque medieval towns such as Orte and Vitorchiano.

When you arrive in the main town of Bagnoregio, you find yourself driving along narrow cobblestone streets, as in many small towns in Italy, hoping that the oversized car you rented (which at the time seemed like a good idea with all the luggage you brought with you thinking about all the homemade cheese and olive oil you would take back with you) will not scrape along any of the buildings as you drive past them. It is a pretty little town filled with little shops and restaurants, and homes, most of which were built during the Middle Ages. There are not many hotels within the town itself but you can find many houses and apartments for renting short term in the surrounding towns.

Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

In order to get to the actual site of the ghost town, which is a suburb of Bagnoregio, you have to drive all the way to the end of the road and park your car in a parking lot. Stop at the restroom (WC) now, if you have to, which by the way you have to pay to go in, because it is a long walk to get to the hill. From there you walk down to the ticket office, then walk along a long bridge to the hilltop because no cars are allowed at the site to prevent further damage, and believe me, when I say long I mean a long road going uphill all the way. There is even a small first aid cart that rides up and down this bridge in case someone is in distress. I had to stop a few times to drink some water and catch my breath!

Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo, parking lot

Parking lot near ticket office

 

Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

Town of Bagnoregio

 

Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

Civita di Bagnoregio, view from the rest area

 

Front gate to one of the houses in Civita di Bagnoregio

Front gate to one of the houses in Civita di Bagnoregio

 

Santa Maria doorway, Civita di Bagnoregio

Santa Maria doorway

As I walked within this medieval town on this hot and sunny afternoon, I felt like I was being transported back in time, only to be brought back by the sudden appearance of a souvenir store. There are also several cafes and small restaurants along the way, with tourists, many tourists, snapping photos and filling their water bottles at the water fountain in the piazza where the church of San Donato can be found.

Souvenir store in Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

Souvenir store in Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

 

Tourists hanging out in one of the cafes in Civita di Bagnoregio

Tourists hanging out in one of the cafes

 

Church of San Donato, Civita di Bagnoregio in the Province of Viterbo

Church of San Donato

Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

Civita di Bagnoregio - wooden door to one of the buildings

Wooden door to one of the buildings

Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

One of the many arches in Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

As I said before, I picked a very hot summer day to visit so it was not very pleasant walking up the long road. My advice is to go during the spring or fall when temperatures are a little cooler.

 

For tour arrangements, go to Civita di Bagnoregio Tours.

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Rome – Caput Mundi

People tend to associate Italy with ancient Rome and its crazy emperors, but it goes way beyond that in time. In fact, there is evidence that humans have inhabited this area since prehistoric times (see https://www.britannica.com/topic/ancient-Italic-people  and https://www.britannica.com/topic/Villanovan-culture for more information).

The city of Rome has adapted as its nickname Caput Mundi, or “the capital of the world”. It was actually in antiquity the capital of what was then known as the world. This included Europe, Britain, Northern Africa, western Asia, and the Mediterranean Islands. And, yes, one look at a map of Italy and you will see that all roads do lead to Rome.

According to legend, the twin sons of Mars, the god of war, and Rhea, a vestal virgin and daughter of the king of Alba Long, Amulius, were put into a basket and thrown into the Tiber River because the king did not want any successors to the throne. These twins, Romulus and Remus, were then found near a sacred fig tree, the Ficus Ruminalis, by a she-wolf and raised by her, hence the symbol of Rome being the twins suckling a wolf. Later on, the twins were found by a herdsman named Faustulus. They went on to found the city of Rome on the banks of the Tiber River around 753 BC, but Romulus ended up killing Remus and becoming the first king of Rome, which was named after him.

Symbol of Rome - Romulus and Remus.

The symbol of Rome – Romulus and Remus suckling on a she-wolf.

Rome went through many transformations, from winning many battles with their ruthless warriors and ruling over a great portion of the ancient world, to creating the most beautiful art masterpieces, and producing some of the most exquisite food.

The Sistine Chapel Ceiling

The Sistine Chapel Ceiling

With its concentration of ancient ruins, which are still being excavated by the way, to its many restaurants, museums, and shopping, it is not a place where a visitor can see it all in one vacation, nor a topic that can be summed up in one post or article. I have been there many times and still have not seen everything there is to see in this wondrous city.

The Ancient Via Appia

The Ancient Via Appia

I’ve been to many of the ruins, eaten in the finest restaurants, both fancy and mom and pop type eateries. I’ve bought paintings in Piazza Navona, marveled at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, even done some shopping, but the place that really stirs my emotions is the Roman Forum. I don’t know what it is about this place but every time I go there I feel as if I’m home. I remember being there a long time ago, on a sunny afternoon in the springtime, feeling the warm breeze blowing through my hair. I was holding a little flower that I had picked up on one the ancient paths I had walked on. I closed my eyes and for a brief moment I was transported back to ancient Rome. I could almost hear the local Romans going about their business, conversations amongst friends, customers bargaining with vendors that had set up shop along the cobblestone street. Is it possible that I’ve lived there in a previous life? Who knows, but it is definitely quite an experience walking on the same paths as the Caesars did.

Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, Roman Forum

Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, Roman Forum

Circus Maximus, the largest ancient Roman racetrack for chariots and other spectacles,  which now hosts concerts.

Circus Maximus, the largest ancient Roman racetrack for chariots and other spectacles, where Ben-Hur was filmed and which now hosts concerts.

Piazza Navona at night

Piazza Navona at night

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For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

Restricted Driving Zones (ZTL)

So I get this very official looking letter in the mail the other day with a return address of “NCDS Comune di Milano Polizia Locale” in Italy. Of course I got really nervous because I’ve heard about all the hidden traffic cameras that are posted throughout the streets and highways of Italy (not that I drive like a maniac – in fact, I drive slowly because I am terrified of driving in Italy with all those Fiats zipping around me, but that’s another story). I opened it up and found a traffic violation from over a year ago when we were in Milan!

It turns out that we had unknowingly driven down a street which was in a restricted driving zone, or ZTL. These zones are set up mostly in historic city centers to help reduce congestion. Cars and other vehicles are not allowed to park or even drive down these streets.

Limited traffic zones - ZTL

Limited traffic zones – ZTL

I actually stayed in a hotel in Florence this past summer which was in a ZTL. I had to pay extra to the parking garage (I could have also paid the hotel) so that they would alert the police not to issue me a violation since I was staying at a hotel in the restricted zone. And the fine for violating a restricted zone can be hefty depending on what type of car you drive or how long you take to pay it.

I was able to go online to check that it was an official document and actually see a video of us driving through the restricted zone in the center of Milan. I paid it online within the amount of time I was given so I was only charged the amount of 71.45 euros, which is currently about $79.00.

For more information, including detailed maps of these zones and how to avoid violations, please go to  DYK?: What are Italy ZTL Restricted Driving Zones?.

 

Top photo credit Alain Rouiller @ Flickr.com

Villa d’Este, Tivoli

Villa d’Este, also known as Tivoli Gardens, is a UNESCO world heritage site in the town of Tivoli which is just outside the city of Rome. It was commissioned during the Renaissance by Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, governor of Tivoli in 1550, after being disappointed that he was not elected to the papacy. He wanted to build a residence which would rival all the Roman villas so he acquired a lot of land surrounding the governor’s official residence, which was originally a monastery and had a magnificent view of the countryside.

Villa d'Este, Tivoli

Villa d’Este

In the process of building this luxurious villa, many houses, roads, and buildings were demolished causing many lawsuits to be brought against him, but he continued. He commissioned Pirro Ligorio, an artist and scholar who studied the many Roman villas in the surrounding area, to plan this new villa and garden in the Baroque style (and also used many objects of art taken from Hadrian’s Villa nearby), architect Alberto Galvani to design the blueprints, many engineers to design and construct the fountains, and many painters and sculptors to adorn it.

View through the Fountain of Neptune,Villa d'Este

View through the Fountain of Neptune

Because of the steep slope of the land where it was built, a large amount of dirt had to be excavated to construct terraces and canals to carry water from the Aniene river to the fountains through underground pipes.

One of the fountains is actually a hydraulic organ which plays music by pushing air through the organ pipes.

Sometime between the 18th and 19th century, the villa was abandoned but was later restored and is now one of the most visited sites in the world.

View from one of the terraces of the gardens of Villa d'Este

View from one of the terraces of the gardens of Villa d’Este

The Fountain of Rometta, representing the founding of Rome

The Fountain of Rometta, representing the founding of Rome

Courtyard, Villa d'Este

Courtyard

View from a window, Villa d'Este

View from a window

Fresco in the Hall of Glory, Villa d'Este

Fresco in the Hall of Glory

The "Hall of Horses", Villa d'Este

The “Hall of Horses”

Steps leading up to the villa, Villa d'Este

Steps leading up to the villa

Walking through the gardens, Villa d'Este

Walking through the gardens, Villa d’Este




  

Monte Fammera

Monte Fammera is a very distinctly shaped mountain which overlooks the municipalities of Ausonia and Spigno Saturnia. It is part of the Aurunci Mountains in the Apennine Mountain range.

I’ve heard many stories regarding this mountain during World War II from family members. There is a cave somewhere in this mountain where the residents of Selvacava and the surrounding towns used to hide in during WWII. Since the mountain is at a higher level than the towns, it was a good vantage point for spotting invading soldiers not only on the ground, but also from the Tyrrhenian Sea in the distance.

Selvacava, with its many olive groves, looking toward the Tyrrhenian Sea

Selvacava, with its many olive groves, looking toward the Tyrrhenian Sea

My father told of how Nazi soldiers tried to get him to fight with them and when he refused, he was shot in the leg while running to the mountain, and how they were so hungry while hiding out that they had to kill their donkey and eat it. In fact, I still have the horseshoe that my father saved.

My dad's donkey's horseshoe

My dad’s donkey’s horseshoe

My uncle also told me of how one day all the shooting and bombing had stopped. My great aunt decided to leave the cave to see why there was a great silence and when she peered over a small hill, she found herself with a submachine gun pointed at her face! It turned out that the war had ended and the French were looking for Nazis and she had spooked them.

When I was little and lived in the Bronx, my father belonged to a club of  “paesans” from Selvacava. One time they had a Christmas party at the old Alex and Henry’s Catering Hall, where they usually had their parties, and hired this old guy as entertainment who told jokes and stories about WWII in Italy and did sound effects to go along with it. I remember feeling very uncomfortable watching the old Italians around me laughing at something I found so terrifying but then I realized that was how they dealt with what they had gone through, just like when I lived in Italy and my father and uncle would often break out their old record of war songs and play them. I didn’t know at the time that they were war songs until years later when I was watching the movie Moon Over Parador and heard one of the songs,  “Lili Marlen” in one of the scenes and I looked it up.

For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

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Ausonia, Frosinone

Ausonia is a medieval municipality of Lazio located in the Aurunci Mountains in the province of Frosinone. It includes the villages of Selvacava, Correano, Madonna del Piano, Pastena, Bastia di Selvacava, Case, Cavone, Corevento, Orfanotrofio, Pantana, Pantane, Pantanelle – Renchiuse, Ranella, Rotondoli, and Trifolle.

The name Ausonia comes from the legendary italic people called the Aurunci who inhabited the lands in this area before it was destroyed by the ancient Romans in the 4th century BC.

Places to Visit in Ausonia

The Church of Santa Maria di Correano, located in the village of Correano is an ancient Roman church. According to local stories, it is the first church that was built outside of Rome. It is said that Augustus Caesar himself loved vacationing here and would often visit. It is also believed that the wife of Emperor Nero was buried in the sarcophagus in front of the church.

Church of Santa Maria di Correano, Ausonia, Frosinone

Church of Santa Maria di Correano

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano (Madonna of the Plain) is a Roman Catholic Church built during the 15th century in place of the original structure that existed here. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to a young shepherd girl and asked her to have an orphanage built here.

The medieval castle of Ausonia was built in 1000 AD by the princes of Capua. It was used as a military fortress to guard the strategic road from Monte Cassino to Gaeta which cut through Ausonia.

The Castle of Ausonia

The Castle of Ausonia with Monte Fammera in the background
Photo Credit: Man In The Maze @Flickr.com

Ausonia and the surrounding area suffered brutal battles during WWII. Many people emigrated from here after the war to the eastern United States.

Ausonia, Frosinone, May 14, 1944, during WWII

Ausonia, May 14, 1944, during WWII

Taking a drive through Ausonia, Frosinone.

Taking a drive through Ausonia.

For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

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Gaeta, Latina

Gaeta is a picturesque port city on the coastline of Italy in the province of Latina. It is located on a promontory overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea in what is known as the Ulysses Riviera (la riviera di Ulisse), also known as the Gulf of Gaeta, where according to legend, Ulysses, or Odysseus in Greek mythology, came to meet the enchantress Circe on his way back from the Trojan War. It is a popular seaside resort town which dates back to ancient Rome, known for its beautiful beaches such as Sérapo and Sant’Agostino, and where the famous purplish black olives originated from.

Serapo beach, Gaeta

Serapo beach, Gaeta, seen from the top of the sanctuary at Montagna Spaccata.

Gaeta has many wonderful natural and historical attractions one should visit.

Montagna Spaccata

The grotto at Montagna Spaccata

One such place that is not to be missed is the mysterious natural sea grotto, Montagna Spaccata, or Split Mountain, where the Sanctuary of Santissima Trinità is located. According to local stories, God was so distraught at the crucifixion of Christ that He made the earth shake and let out a lightning bolt which split this mountain in two. A chapel was built upon this location to honor this event.

Torre di Sant'Agostino, Gaeta

Torre di Sant’Agostino, Gaeta

The tower at Sant’Agostino beach is one of the many lookout points that were set up so that towns along the coastline could warn each other of invaders.

Castello Angioino Aragonese

The medieval Castello Angioino Aragonese

Castello Angioino Aragonese is a medieval castle that was built around the 6th century to protect against invasions. The lower part was built during the rule of the House of the French Anjou and the upper part by the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V.  It served as a fortress during the Goth Wars and then during the invasion of the Lombards, and most recently served as a military prison.

Via Flacca is the scenic road that connects Formia to Terracina

Via Flacca

Via Flacca is the scenic coastal road that connects Formia to Terracina, and leads into Via Appia to Rome in the north, and to Naples in the south.

Nato naval base, Gaeta, on the left

Nato naval base (white building on left)

It is also where NATO’s US naval base of operations is located.

Gaeta as seen from Formia

Gaeta as seen from Formia

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Formia, Latina

The charming city of Formia is located at the foot of the Aurunci Mountains in the province of Latina, along the Ulysses Riviera (la riviera di Ulisse), also known as the Gulf of Gaeta, where according to legend, Ulysses, or Odysseus in Greek mythology, came to meet the enchantress Circe on his way back from the Trojan War.

It has historical significance being situated on the famous Via Appia, which was built by the Roman Empire and much travelled by the ancient Romans. It is a resilient town, being destroyed in 842 by the Saracens, then again during World War II, and rebuilt to its current splendor.

The coastline is dotted with many beautiful beaches and resorts. The main street which is packed with people out for a stroll on a warm spring or summer night is filled with little shops and places to grab a pizza or gelato.

Mountains overlooking Formia

Aurunci Mountains overlooking Formia

Some of its popular attractions include the Tomb and Villa of Cicero (also known as Villa Rubino), the Tower of Mola (top photo), the Archeological Museum, and ruins of prehistoric megalithic walls.

Tomb of Cicero

Tomb of Cicero (Photo credit: pietroizzo via Foter.com / CC BY-NC-SA)

If you like visiting churches, not to be missed are Santa Maria di Castagneto, the oldest church in Formia, the church of San Giovanni Battista e Lorenzo, and of Sant’ Erasmo, one of the patron saints of Formia (along with San Giovanni).

Church of Santa Maria di Castagneto, Formia

Church of Santa Maria di Castagneto (Photo credit: Raffaele Vallefuoco Flickr.com)

Formia, province of Latina

Formia, seen from Gaeta

For travel arrangements go to Travel and Tourism.

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Selvacava, Frosinone, where time stands still

Selvacava is a small village in central Italy, in the municipality of Ausonia, which is in the province of Frosinone, in the Lazio region. It lies about halfway between Rome and Naples, and is where my father was born. It has a population of 335.

The village of Selvacava in the province of Frosinone, Italy

Selvacava, with Monte Fammera in the background

I love this charming village. It is the type of place where you can go to find tranquility and get lost in your thoughts.

One of the many alleyways in Selvacava

One of the many alleyways in Selvacava

Not much has changed since the first time I went there when I was a child. There have been a few houses constructed, and there are now actually street lights and the streets are no longer dirt roads, but it still has that rustic charm with its fruit orchards, vineyards, and olive groves. Wine, cheese, and olive oil are still made by its residents. There is only one small grocery store within the village where you can get the bare necessities such as milk and bread, but there are larger stores in the surrounding towns and villages where you can get more.

Ancient fountain in Selvacava, Frosinone

Ancient fountain in Selvacava

Selvacava is surrounded by marble quarries which not only drive the economy of the surrounding areas but also make up somewhat of an open air museum where one can find many fossils of ancient sea creatures embedded in the stone from when this area was under water.

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This is the type of place where you need to have a car because even though there is bus service, it does not run frequently, and the nearest train station is in Formia.

The ever watchful Monte Fammera, where local residents hid during WWII

The ever watchful Monte Fammera, where local residents hid during WWII

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