The Abbey of Monte Cassino, Frosinone

Posted on March 19, 2022 by La Ciociara

The Abbey of Monte Cassino, located on top of a very large hill in the town of Cassino in the province of Frosinone, was founded by St. Benedict in 528 AD and is home to his sacred relics, along with those of his sister, St. Scholastica. It is considered to be the birthplace of monasticism in Western Europe.

The abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt many times due to barbarian invasions and natural disasters, and was the site of a very important battle during WWII between Allied forces and German soldiers due to its strategic location. After being destroyed by the Allies during WWII, it was rebuilt and reconsecrated in 1964 by Pope Paul VI. Today it is a monastery and museum, and includes a large cemetery of Polish soldiers killed during WWII while trying to liberate Italy.

Monte Cassino Cemetary for Polish soldiers who died defending the abbey during WWII

Monks living in the monastery live by two basic principles: pray and work. All members of the monastery community have an important job to do. Their duties include receiving visitors, organizing events, maintaining the libraries and archives, binding books, growing herbs for their on-site pharmacy, and tending to its vineyard.

Vineyard

Was the destruction of the Abbey during WWII due to an error in translation?

According to an account by Colonel David Hunt found in the book With Alex at War, the autobiography of Sir Rupert Clarke, the bombardment of the Abbey by the Allies was due to a misinterpretation of an intercepted radio message by a British junior officer. The officer mistook the word “abbot” for a similar word in German meaning “bombardment”. By the time Colonel Hunt realized this error, it was too late and the American forces bombed the mountain top, something that both sides had promised the pope they would never do, killing hundreds of refugees that were taking shelter there. Miraculously, the abbot and monks were saved.

Monte Cassino after being destroyed during WWII

Monte Cassino Abbey Today

The monks that live in the abbey live each day according to St. Benedict’s Rule, regulations and guidelines written by him in the 6th century, which describes every aspect of monastic life and encourages love, prayer, work, respect, chastity, moderation, and community. The monks are known as cenobites, living in a religious community, rather than in isolation, under a leader, the abbot.

The cathedral that stands here today is actually the 4th church to be built on this site. What little was left of the cathedral before it was destroyed during WWII can be found incorporated in the structure and in its museums.

Courtyard with statue of St. Benedict receiving Holy Communion

Doorway of Peace (PAX)

Cloisters

One of the many chapels in the Abbey of Monte Cassino

View of Cassino from Monte Cassino

Fresco of St. Benedict

Latin Text

If you plan to visit during the warmer months, please be advised that, as with all churches, basilicas, etc., you will not be allowed in wearing shorts or sleeveless shirts.

To purchase tickets online, go to Abbazia di Montecassino.

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Top photo credit: William Piccolino

Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

Civita di Bagnoregio – The Dying City

Posted on April 24, 2021 by La Ciociara

So a few weeks ago, while we were in the small town of Selvacava where my father was born, wondering what to do next, I had the brilliant idea of driving to Civita di Bagnoregio, a sort of “ghost town” in the lovely province of Viterbo, north of Rome. Not only was it 3 hours away but it was a very hot summer day, in the 90’s. I have to admit, it was worth it.

Civita di Bagnoregio, also known as “La Citta Che Muore”, or “The Dying City”, is an ancient town in an area called Tuscia, in the Tiber Valley, which was first settled by the Etruscans who chose this area because of the landscape – it is very hilly which made it easier to defend against invaders. It is also the birthplace of St. Bonaventure, a Franciscan monk born during the Middle Ages who became Cardinal and Bishop of Albano.

Tiber Valley

When the Etruscans settled here and in the surrounding towns, they built their fortressed towns on these hills made of “tuff”, a porous volcanic rock, and fragile clay, which unfortunately over the centuries have either broken off bit by bit due to landslides and earthquakes, or worn away from the rain. Many of the buildings in Civita are long gone and the land continues to erode, which is why the town is empty except for tourists and a few people who still live there year round, and is on the list of “100 of the Most Endangered Sites”. Thanks to the efforts of the mayor of Civita and the main town of Bagnoregio, tourists are now required to pay a small fee to cross the footbridge which is used to help preserve the town’s beauty. The regional government of Lazio has also pledged to invest in preserving this important site.

Looking towards the comune of Lubriano from Civita di Bagnoregio

The drive to the province of Viterbo from Selvacava is a long one on the Autostrada A1, which crisscrosses from Lazio into Umbria, but once you get off the Autostrada the road cuts through the peaceful countryside dotted with picturesque medieval towns such as Orte and Vitorchiano.

When you arrive in the main town of Bagnoregio, you find yourself driving along narrow cobblestone streets, as in many small towns in Italy, hoping that the oversized car you rented (which at the time seemed like a good idea with all the luggage you brought with you thinking about all the homemade cheese and olive oil you would take back with you) will not scrape along any of the buildings as you drive past them. It is a pretty little town filled with little shops and restaurants, and homes, most of which were built during the Middle Ages. There are not many hotels within the town itself but you can find many houses and apartments for renting short term in the surrounding towns.

In order to get to the actual site of the ghost town, which is a suburb of Bagnoregio, you have to drive all the way to the end of the road and park your car in a parking lot. Stop at the restroom (WC) now, if you have to, which by the way you have to pay to go in, because it is a long walk to get to the hill. From there you walk down to the ticket office, then walk along a long bridge to the hilltop because no cars are allowed at the site to prevent further damage, and believe me, when I say long I mean a long road going uphill all the way. There is even a small first aid cart that rides up and down this bridge in case someone is in distress. I had to stop a few times to drink some water and catch my breath!

Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo, parking lot

Parking lot near ticket office

Town of Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio, view from the rest area

Front gate to one of the houses in Civita di Bagnoregio

Santa Maria doorway

As I walked within this medieval town on this hot and sunny afternoon, I felt like I was being transported back in time, only to be brought back by the sudden appearance of a souvenir store. There are also several cafes and small restaurants along the way, with tourists, many tourists, snapping photos and filling their water bottles at the water fountain in the piazza where the church of San Donato can be found.

Souvenir store in Civita di Bagnoregio, Province of Viterbo

Tourists hanging out in one of the cafes

Church of San Donato

Wooden door to one of the buildings

As I said before, I picked a very hot summer day to visit so it was not very pleasant walking up the long road. My advice is to go during the spring or fall when temperatures are a little cooler.

For tour arrangements, go to Civita di Bagnoregio Tours.

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Church of Santa Maria di Correano

Posted on February 15, 2020 by La Ciociara

The church of Santa Maria (or La Madonna) di Correano is located in Ausonia, in an area known as the land of fairies, or La Regione Delle Fate, named after a mysterious underground cave, La Grotta Delle Fate, which contains a tomb-like structure believed to be in honor of a divinity of the Etruscan people who lived here in ancient times.

The church is believed to have been built sometime in the 11th century on the site of an ancient Roman villa, although according to local stories, this church is the first church that was built outside of Rome. It is said that St. Peter was brought here by Roman soldiers to preach to the local people after landing on the shore of Scauri, about 15 minutes away.

Augustus Caesar had a villa in this area and would often come here with senators to discuss important matters. In fact there were documents signed by him which were stored in the local library in Ausonia but unfortunately were lost or destroyed during WWII.

Pillar in front of the church of Santa Maria di Correanowith inscription "Augustali Colonia... Neronensis Claudia"

Pillar in front of the church with inscription “Augustali Colonia… Neronensis Claudia”

It is rumored that the sarcophagus in front of the church contained either the wife of Emperor Nero or one of his daughters.

Sarcophagus in front of the church

Inside the church you will find an altar which is believed to have belonged to the Convent of San Martino, a wooden statue of the Madonna and Child, and frescoes that were painted during the 14th century.

Church altar

Wooden statue of the Madonna and Child

Fresco inside the church

While it was being restored, an ancient Roman road was discovered underneath the church.

Ancient Roman road.

For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

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The Mysterious Montagna Spaccata in Gaeta

Posted on May 10, 2019 by La Ciociara

The mysterious sea grotto of Montagna Spaccata, or Split Mountain, is a natural wonder found on Monte Orlando, a protected natural park in Gaeta.

According to local stories, God was so distraught at the crucifixion of Christ that He made the earth shake and let out a lightning bolt which created three giant cracks in this mountain. The Sanctuary of Santissima Trinità, or Holy Trinity, was built during the 11th century by the Benedictine monks to honor this event.

The Caves (Grotte) of Pastena

Posted on April 15, 2019 by La Ciociara

For many years, as I drove through the countryside of Ciociaria, I saw signs along the roads inviting tourists and curious people to see the caves of Pastena (le grotte di Pastena), so finally I decided to see what they were all about.

The grotte, or caves, of Pastena, located in a valley deep in the Ausoni mountains in the province of Frosinone, are a natural wonder not to be missed.

The caves are part of a karst system which was formed by deposits of carbonate of calcium (salt) about 100 million years ago under a shallow sea. It emerged from underwater due to tectonic movements about 2 million years ago, during the Pleistocene era, and continues to form.

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano, Ausonia

Posted on January 17, 2019 by La Ciociara

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano (Madonna of the Plain) is a Roman Catholic Church in the town of Ausonia in the Province of Frosinone built during the 15th century in place of the original structure that existed here.

According to one legend, San Giorgio slayed a dragon in this very spot, but the most widely accepted story about why this church was built here dates back to the 12th century. According to tradition, there used to be a small lake here where the locals would throw babies that were born deformed. One day a young shepherd girl named Remingarda was walking nearby and the Virgin Mary appeared to her and asked her to tell the people to stop this practice and instead build an orphanage as penance for what they had been doing. When the townspeople went to the site where the girl said she had the vision, they were instructed on how to build the orphanage by ants that appeared and began to draw an image on the site.

The altar of the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano

Terracina, as seen from the Temple of Jupiter

Terracina, Latina

Posted on January 14, 2019 by La Ciociara

Terracina is a lovely city in the province of Latina along the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea which dates back to prehistoric times. In fact, the skull of a Neanderthal man was discovered in one of the caves, Guattari Cave, found in the surrounding area.

It has many beautiful beaches and is located on what is known as the Ulysses Riviera, so called because according to the The Odyssey, Odysseus (Ulysses) landed here and his men were turned to beasts by the sorceress Circe who lived on a mountain now called Monte Circeo. It is also associated with the legend of Aeneas who escaped from Troy and arrived in this area.

Monte Circeo

How to Make Homemade Cheese Like an Italian

Posted on June 2, 2017 by La Ciociara

It is believed that cheesemaking came about accidentally around 6,000 BC when milk was transported in the stomachs of cows or sheep which contained an enzyme, rennet, that caused the milk to curdle. By the time of the Roman Empire, it had become widespread throughout Europe and the Middle East.

This is an easy recipe for making typical homemade cheese known as marzellina, or also marzolina, that is eaten in the area of Ciociaria, Italy. It is delicious with day old Italian bread, preferably the large round loaf, sliced up tomatoes, and a bit of extra virgin olive oil drizzled over it. My father has been known to use hard, stale bread moistened with a little bit of water, and a tomato smashed on top to moisten even more. You can even grate it over pasta instead of using parmesan or pecorino cheese.

This cheese is made with a lot of salt, which was originally used to preserve the cheese, and the more it ages, the saltier and harder it gets. I like to eat it when it’s freshly made and still soft enough to spread on bread.

This recipe calls for cow’s milk, although farmers in Italy who have sheep or goats tend to use their milk instead. It uses rennet tablets, a type of coagulant, that causes the milk to curdle, separating the curd from the whey (which in reality causes the milk to spoil), but you can also use rennet in liquid form. For 1 quart of whole milk, use 2 tablets; for 1/2 gallon, use 3 tablets; and for 1 gallon of milk, use about 3 1/2 tablets. Do not throw away the whey – you can either drink it or use to make polenta, or any recipe that calls for a liquid, to make it richer.

I usually use metal molds for making cheese which were purchased in Italy (see picture below) but you can also use plastic molds which can be purchased online or at an Italian gourmet shop.

Metal Molds For Making Homemade Cheese

Ingredients
1 gallon whole milk
3 1/2 tablets of rennet
salt

In a large bowl, pour the milk and bring it to room temperature; you can also warm it in a big pot.
Crush rennet tablets in a bowl and mix with a little bit of warm water before adding to the milk, otherwise it will curdle the milk immediately. Mix gently into the milk.
Cover the the milk with a towel and let stand until it is coagulated.
Once you see that the curd has separated from the whey (curdled), break the curd apart with your hands gently. You can place the cheese molds on top or use a small strainer to create a weight on top of the curds so that the solids sink to the bottom and the whey remains on top which you can then remove with a ladle.
Spoon the curds into the molds, packing them in, and place them in a strainer or anything that would allow them to drain (they must become solid), and refrigerate.
When they are completely drained, remove the cheese from the molds and roll each one in salt until completely covered. Place in a storage container and refrigerate – they can be left for years in the refrigerator.

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Rome – Caput Mundi

Posted on March 9, 2017 by La Ciociara

People tend to associate Italy with ancient Rome and its crazy emperors, but it goes way beyond that in time. In fact, there is evidence that humans have inhabited this area since prehistoric times (see https://www.britannica.com/topic/ancient-Italic-people and https://www.britannica.com/topic/Villanovan-culture for more information).

The city of Rome has adapted as its nickname Caput Mundi, or “the capital of the world”. It was actually in antiquity the capital of what was then known as the world. This included Europe, Britain, Northern Africa, western Asia, and the Mediterranean Islands. And, yes, one look at a map of Italy and you will see that all roads do lead to Rome.

According to legend, the twin sons of Mars, the god of war, and Rhea, a vestal virgin and daughter of the king of Alba Long, Amulius, were put into a basket and thrown into the Tiber River because the king did not want any successors to the throne. These twins, Romulus and Remus, were then found near a sacred fig tree, the Ficus Ruminalis, by a she-wolf and raised by her, hence the symbol of Rome being the twins suckling a wolf. Later on, the twins were found by a herdsman named Faustulus. They went on to found the city of Rome on the banks of the Tiber River around 753 BC, but Romulus ended up killing Remus and becoming the first king of Rome, which was named after him.

The symbol of Rome – Romulus and Remus suckling on a she-wolf.

Rome went through many transformations, from winning many battles with their ruthless warriors and ruling over a great portion of the ancient world, to creating the most beautiful art masterpieces, and producing some of the most exquisite food.

The Sistine Chapel Ceiling

With its concentration of ancient ruins, which are still being excavated by the way, to its many restaurants, museums, and shopping, it is not a place where a visitor can see it all in one vacation, nor a topic that can be summed up in one post or article. I have been there many times and still have not seen everything there is to see in this wondrous city.

The Ancient Via Appia

I’ve been to many of the ruins, eaten in the finest restaurants, both fancy and mom and pop type eateries. I’ve bought paintings in Piazza Navona, marveled at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, even done some shopping, but the place that really stirs my emotions is the Roman Forum. I don’t know what it is about this place but every time I go there I feel as if I’m home. I remember being there a long time ago, on a sunny afternoon in the springtime, feeling the warm breeze blowing through my hair. I was holding a little flower that I had picked up on one the ancient paths I had walked on. I closed my eyes and for a brief moment I was transported back to ancient Rome. I could almost hear the local Romans going about their business, conversations amongst friends, customers bargaining with vendors that had set up shop along the cobblestone street. Is it possible that I’ve lived there in a previous life? Who knows, but it is definitely quite an experience walking on the same paths as the Caesars did.

Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, Roman Forum

Circus Maximus, the largest ancient Roman racetrack for chariots and other spectacles, which now hosts concerts.

Circus Maximus, the largest ancient Roman racetrack for chariots and other spectacles, where Ben-Hur was filmed and which now hosts concerts.

Piazza Navona at night

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For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

Villa d’Este, Tivoli

Posted on October 10, 2016 by La Ciociara

Villa d’Este, also known as Tivoli Gardens, is a UNESCO world heritage site in the town of Tivoli which is just outside the city of Rome. It was commissioned during the Renaissance by Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, governor of Tivoli in 1550, after being disappointed that he was not elected to the papacy. He wanted to build a residence which would rival all the Roman villas so he acquired a lot of land surrounding the governor’s official residence, which was originally a monastery and had a magnificent view of the countryside.

Villa d’Este

In the process of building this luxurious villa, many houses, roads, and buildings were demolished causing many lawsuits to be brought against him, but he continued. He commissioned Pirro Ligorio, an artist and scholar who studied the many Roman villas in the surrounding area, to plan this new villa and garden in the Baroque style (and also used many objects of art taken from Hadrian’s Villa nearby), architect Alberto Galvani to design the blueprints, many engineers to design and construct the fountains, and many painters and sculptors to adorn it.

View through the Fountain of Neptune

Because of the steep slope of the land where it was built, a large amount of dirt had to be excavated to construct terraces and canals to carry water from the Aniene river to the fountains through underground pipes.

One of the fountains is actually a hydraulic organ which plays music by pushing air through the organ pipes.