The Abbey of Monte Cassino, Frosinone

The Abbey of Monte Cassino, located on top of a very large hill in the town of Cassino in the province of Frosinone, was founded by St. Benedict in 528 AD and is home to his sacred relics, along with those of his sister, St. Scholastica. It is considered to be the birthplace of monasticism in Western Europe.

The abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt many times due to barbarian invasions and natural disasters, and was the site of a very important battle during WWII between Allied forces and German soldiers due to its strategic location. After being destroyed by the Allies during WWII, it was rebuilt and reconsecrated in 1964 by Pope Paul VI. Today it is a monastery and museum, and includes a large cemetery of Polish soldiers killed during WWII while trying to liberate Italy.

Monte Cassino Cemetary for Polish soldiers who died defending the abbey during WWII

Monte Cassino Cemetary for Polish soldiers who died defending the abbey during WWII

Monks living in the monastery live by two basic principles:  pray and work. All members of the monastery community have an important job to do. Their duties include receiving visitors, organizing events, maintaining the libraries and archives, binding books, growing herbs for their on-site pharmacy, and tending to its vineyard.

Monte Cassino Vineyard

Vineyard

Was the destruction of the Abbey during WWII due to an error in translation?

According to an account by Colonel David Hunt found in the book With Alex at War, the autobiography of Sir Rupert Clarke, the bombardment of the Abbey by the Allies was due to a misinterpretation of an intercepted radio message by a British junior officer. The officer mistook the word “abbot” for a similar word in German meaning “bombardment”. By the time Colonel Hunt realized this error, it was too late and the American forces bombed the mountain top, something that both sides had promised the pope they would never do, killing hundreds of refugees that were taking shelter there. Miraculously, the abbot and monks were saved.

Montecassino - WWII

Monte Cassino after being destroyed during WWII

Monte Cassino Abbey Today

The monks that live in the abbey live each day according to St. Benedict’s Rule, regulations and guidelines written by him in the 6th century, which describes every aspect of monastic life and encourages love, prayer, work, respect, chastity, moderation, and community. The monks are known as cenobites, living in a religious community, rather than in isolation, under a leader, the abbot.

The cathedral that stands here today is actually the 4th church to be built on this site. What little was left of the cathedral before it was destroyed during WWII can be found incorporated in the structure and in its museums.

Monte Cassino Courtyard with statue of St. Benedict receiving Holy Communion

Courtyard with statue of St. Benedict receiving Holy Communion

Monte Cassino Doorway of Peace (PAX)

Doorway of Peace (PAX)

Monte Cassino cloisters

Cloisters

One of the many chapels in the Abbey of Monte Cassino

One of the many chapels in the Abbey of Monte Cassino

View of Cassino from Monte Cassino

View of Cassino from Monte Cassino

Fresco of St. Benedict

Fresco of St. Benedict

Latin Text found in the Abbey of Monte Cassino

Latin Text

Latin Text found in the Abbey of Monte Cassino

Latin Text

If you plan to visit during the warmer months, please be advised that, as with all churches, basilicas, etc., you will not be allowed in wearing shorts or sleeveless shirts.

To purchase tickets online, go to Abbazia di Montecassino.

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Top photo credit: William Piccolino

Church of Santa Maria di Correano

The church of Santa Maria (or La Madonna) di Correano is located in Ausonia, in an area known as the land of fairies, or La Regione Delle Fate, named after a mysterious underground cave, La Grotta Delle Fate, which contains a tomb-like structure believed to be in honor of a divinity of the Etruscan people who lived here in ancient times.

The church is believed to have been built sometime in the 11th century on the site of an ancient Roman villa, although according to local stories, this church is the first church that was built outside of Rome. It is said that St. Peter was brought here by Roman soldiers to preach to the local people after landing on the shore of Scauri, about 15 minutes away.

Augustus Caesar had a villa in this area and would often come here with senators to discuss important matters. In fact there were documents signed by him which were stored in the local library in Ausonia but unfortunately were lost or destroyed during WWII.

Pillar in front of the church of Santa Maria di Correanowith inscription "Augustali Colonia... Neronensis Claudia"

Pillar in front of the church with inscription “Augustali Colonia… Neronensis Claudia”

It is rumored that the sarcophagus in front of the church contained either the wife of Emperor Nero or one of his daughters.

Sarcophagus in front of the church of Santa Maria di Correano

Sarcophagus in front of the church

Inside the church you will find an altar which is believed to have belonged to the Convent of San Martino, a wooden statue of the Madonna and Child, and frescoes that were painted during the 14th century.

Santa Maria di Correano altar

Church altar

Wooden statue of the Madonna and Child in the Church of Santa Maria di Correano

Wooden statue of the Madonna and Child

Fresco inside the church of Santa Maria di Correano

Fresco inside the church

Fresco inside the church of Santa Maria di Correano

Fresco inside the church

While it was being restored, an ancient Roman road was discovered underneath the church.

Ancient Roman road discovered under the Church of Santa Maria di Correano in Ausonia

Ancient Roman road.

For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

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The Caves (Grotte) of Pastena

For many years, as I drove through the countryside of Ciociaria, I saw signs along the roads inviting tourists and curious people to see the caves of Pastena (le grotte di Pastena), so finally I decided to see what they were all about.

The grotte, or caves, of Pastena, located in a valley deep in the Ausoni mountains in the province of Frosinone, are a natural wonder not to be missed.

The caves are part of a karst system which was formed by deposits of carbonate of calcium (salt) about 100 million years ago under a shallow sea. It emerged from underwater due to tectonic movements about 2 million years ago, during the Pleistocene era, and continues to form.

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano, Ausonia

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano (Madonna of the Plain) is a Roman Catholic Church in the town of Ausonia in the Province of Frosinone built during the 15th century in place of the original structure that existed here.

According to one legend, San Giorgio slayed a dragon in this very spot, but the most widely accepted story about why this church was built here dates back to the 12th century. According to tradition, there used to be a small lake here where the locals would throw babies that were born deformed. One day a young shepherd girl named Remingarda was walking nearby and the Virgin Mary appeared to her and asked her to tell the people to stop this practice and instead build an orphanage as penance for what they had been doing. When the townspeople went to the site where the girl said she had the vision, they were instructed on how to build the orphanage by ants that appeared and began to draw an image on the site.

The Altar of the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano

The altar of the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano

How to Make Homemade Cheese Like an Italian

It is believed that cheesemaking came about accidentally around 6,000 BC when milk was transported in the stomachs of cows or sheep which contained an enzyme, rennet, that caused the milk to curdle. By the time of the Roman Empire, it had become widespread throughout Europe and the Middle East.

This is an easy recipe for making typical homemade cheese known as marzellina, or also marzolina, that is eaten in the area of Ciociaria, Italy. It is delicious with day old Italian bread, preferably the large round loaf, sliced up tomatoes, and a bit of extra virgin olive oil drizzled over it. My father has been known to use hard, stale bread moistened with a little bit of water, and a tomato smashed on top to moisten even more. You can even grate it over pasta instead of using parmesan or pecorino cheese.

This cheese is made with a lot of salt, which was originally used to preserve the cheese, and the more it ages, the saltier and harder it gets. I like to eat it when it’s freshly made and still soft enough to spread on bread.

This recipe calls for cow’s milk, although farmers in Italy who have sheep or goats tend to use their milk instead. It uses rennet tablets, a type of coagulant, that causes the milk to curdle, separating the curd from the whey (which in reality causes the milk to spoil), but you can also use rennet in liquid form. For 1 quart of whole milk, use 2 tablets; for 1/2 gallon, use 3 tablets; and for 1 gallon of milk, use about 3 1/2 tablets. Do not throw away the whey – you can either drink it or use to make polenta, or any recipe that calls for a liquid, to make it richer.

I usually use metal molds for making cheese which were purchased in Italy (see picture below) but you can also use plastic molds which can be purchased online or at an Italian gourmet shop.

Metal Molds For Making Homemade Cheese

Metal Molds For Making Homemade Cheese


Ingredients
1 gallon whole milk
3 1/2 tablets of rennet
salt

  1. In a large bowl, pour the milk and bring it to room temperature; you can also warm it in a big pot.
  2. Crush rennet tablets in a bowl and mix with a little bit of warm water before adding to the milk, otherwise it will curdle the milk immediately. Mix gently into the milk.
  3. Cover the the milk with a towel and let stand until it is coagulated.
  4. Once you see that the curd has separated from the whey (curdled), break the curd apart with your hands gently. You can place the cheese molds on top or use a small strainer to create a weight on top of the curds so that the solids sink to the bottom and the whey remains on top which you can then remove with a ladle.
  5. Spoon the curds into the molds, packing them in, and place them in a strainer or anything that would allow them to drain (they must become solid), and refrigerate.
  6. When they are completely drained, remove the cheese from the molds and roll each one in salt until completely covered. Place in a storage container and refrigerate – they can be left for years in the refrigerator.

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Monte Fammera

Monte Fammera is a very distinctly shaped mountain which overlooks the municipalities of Ausonia and Spigno Saturnia. It is part of the Aurunci Mountains in the Apennine Mountain range.

I’ve heard many stories regarding this mountain during World War II from family members. There is a cave somewhere in this mountain where the residents of Selvacava and the surrounding towns used to hide in during WWII. Since the mountain is at a higher level than the towns, it was a good vantage point for spotting invading soldiers not only on the ground, but also from the Tyrrhenian Sea in the distance.

Selvacava, with its many olive groves, looking toward the Tyrrhenian Sea

Selvacava, with its many olive groves, looking toward the Tyrrhenian Sea

My father told of how Nazi soldiers tried to get him to fight with them and when he refused, he was shot in the leg while running to the mountain, and how they were so hungry while hiding out that they had to kill their donkey and eat it. In fact, I still have the horseshoe that my father saved.

My dad's donkey's horseshoe

My dad’s donkey’s horseshoe

My uncle also told me of how one day all the shooting and bombing had stopped. My great aunt decided to leave the cave to see why there was a great silence and when she peered over a small hill, she found herself with a submachine gun pointed at her face! It turned out that the war had ended and the French were looking for Nazis and she had spooked them.

When I was little and lived in the Bronx, my father belonged to a club of  “paesans” from Selvacava. One time they had a Christmas party at the old Alex and Henry’s Catering Hall, where they usually had their parties, and hired this old guy as entertainment who told jokes and stories about WWII in Italy and did sound effects to go along with it. I remember feeling very uncomfortable watching the old Italians around me laughing at something I found so terrifying but then I realized that was how they dealt with what they had gone through, just like when I lived in Italy and my father and uncle would often break out their old record of war songs and play them. I didn’t know at the time that they were war songs until years later when I was watching the movie Moon Over Parador and heard one of the songs,  “Lili Marlen” in one of the scenes and I looked it up.

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Ausonia, Frosinone

Ausonia is a medieval municipality of Lazio located in the Aurunci Mountains in the province of Frosinone. It includes the villages of Selvacava, Correano, Madonna del Piano, Pastena, Bastia di Selvacava, Case, Cavone, Corevento, Orfanotrofio, Pantana, Pantane, Pantanelle – Renchiuse, Ranella, Rotondoli, and Trifolle.

The name Ausonia comes from the legendary italic people called the Aurunci who inhabited the lands in this area before it was destroyed by the ancient Romans in the 4th century BC.

Places to Visit in Ausonia

The Church of Santa Maria di Correano, located in the village of Correano is an ancient Roman church. According to local stories, it is the first church that was built outside of Rome. It is said that Augustus Caesar himself loved vacationing here and would often visit. It is also believed that the wife of Emperor Nero was buried in the sarcophagus in front of the church.

Church of Santa Maria di Correano, Ausonia, Frosinone

Church of Santa Maria di Correano

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano (Madonna of the Plain) is a Roman Catholic Church built during the 15th century in place of the original structure that existed here. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to a young shepherd girl and asked her to have an orphanage built here.

The medieval castle of Ausonia was built in 1000 AD by the princes of Capua. It was used as a military fortress to guard the strategic road from Monte Cassino to Gaeta which cut through Ausonia.

The Castle of Ausonia

The Castle of Ausonia with Monte Fammera in the background
Photo Credit: Man In The Maze @Flickr.com

Ausonia and the surrounding area suffered brutal battles during WWII. Many people emigrated from here after the war to the eastern United States.

Ausonia, Frosinone, May 14, 1944, during WWII

Ausonia, May 14, 1944, during WWII

Taking a drive through Ausonia, Frosinone.

Taking a drive through Ausonia.

For travel arrangements, go to Travel and Tourism.

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Selvacava, Frosinone, where time stands still

Selvacava is a small village in central Italy, in the municipality of Ausonia, which is in the province of Frosinone, in the Lazio region. It lies about halfway between Rome and Naples, and is where my father was born. It has a population of 335.

The village of Selvacava in the province of Frosinone, Italy

Selvacava, with Monte Fammera in the background

I love this charming village. It is the type of place where you can go to find tranquility and get lost in your thoughts.

One of the many alleyways in Selvacava

One of the many alleyways in Selvacava

Not much has changed since the first time I went there when I was a child. There have been a few houses constructed, and there are now actually street lights and the streets are no longer dirt roads, but it still has that rustic charm with its fruit orchards, vineyards, and olive groves. Wine, cheese, and olive oil are still made by its residents. There is only one small grocery store within the village where you can get the bare necessities such as milk and bread, but there are larger stores in the surrounding towns and villages where you can get more.

Ancient fountain in Selvacava, Frosinone

Ancient fountain in Selvacava

Selvacava is surrounded by marble quarries which not only drive the economy of the surrounding areas but also make up somewhat of an open air museum where one can find many fossils of ancient sea creatures embedded in the stone from when this area was under water.

Frantoia Extra Virgin Olive Oil - Di Bruno Bros, Culinary pioneers since 1939..

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This is the type of place where you need to have a car because even though there is bus service, it does not run frequently, and the nearest train station is in Formia.

The ever watchful Monte Fammera, where local residents hid during WWII

The ever watchful Monte Fammera, where local residents hid during WWII

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