The Caves (Grotte) of Pastena

For many years, as I drove through the countryside of Ciociaria, I saw signs along the roads inviting tourists and curious people to see the caves of Pastena (le grotte di Pastena), so finally I decided to see what they were all about.

The grotte, or caves, of Pastena, located in a valley deep in the Ausoni mountains in the province of Frosinone, are a natural wonder not to be missed.

The caves are part of a karst system which was formed by deposits of carbonate of calcium (salt) about 100 million years ago under a shallow sea. It emerged from underwater due to tectonic movements about 2 million years ago, during the Pleistocene era, and continues to form.

Chicken Marsala with Mushrooms

Chicken Marsala with mushrooms is one of my favorite Italian chicken dishes. Not only is it tasty and delicious, but it is very simple to make making it an easy choice when you don’t have much time to make dinner.

Marsala wine is a sweet wine made in Sicily, usually fortified with brandy. There are 2 types – sweet and dry. When cooking in a savory dish, use dry Marsala, and when making desserts, use the sweet version. You can use sherry instead if you don’t have Marsala but it will slightly change the taste.

Pasta with Cannellini Beans and Gorgonzola

Pasta with white cannellini beans, known as pasta fagioli in Italian (or pasta fasul in dialect), and gorgonzola cheese is a very filling and flavorful dish. It contains lots of protein and fiber so not only is it a comfort food but it’s also good for you!

I usually make it when I have no idea what to make after days upon days of eating meat, fish, tomato sauce, etc. I use either medium shell pasta or orecchiette, but any short pasta will do. This recipe calls for gorgonzola cheese, but you can use any blue cheese or even Feta cheese. I also like to use Progresso brand White Cannellini Kidney because they are tasty.

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano, Ausonia

The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano (Madonna of the Plain) is a Roman Catholic Church in the town of Ausonia in the Province of Frosinone built during the 15th century in place of the original structure that existed here.

According to one legend, San Giorgio slayed a dragon in this very spot, but the most widely accepted story about why this church was built here dates back to the 12th century. According to tradition, there used to be a small lake here where the locals would throw babies that were born deformed. One day a young shepherd girl named Remingarda was walking nearby and the Virgin Mary appeared to her and asked her to tell the people to stop this practice and instead build an orphanage as penance for what they had been doing. When the townspeople went to the site where the girl said she had the vision, they were instructed on how to build the orphanage by ants that appeared and began to draw an image on the site.

The Altar of the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano

The altar of the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano

Terracina, Latina

Terracina is a lovely city in the province of Latina along the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea which dates back to prehistoric times. In fact, the skull of a Neanderthal man was discovered in one of the caves, Guattari Cave, found in the surrounding area.

It has many beautiful beaches and is located on what is known as the Ulysses Riviera, so called because according to the The Odyssey, Odysseus (Ulysses) landed here and his men were turned to beasts by the sorceress Circe who lived on a mountain now called Monte Circeo. It is also associated with the legend of Aeneas who escaped from Troy and arrived in this area.

Monte Circeo

Monte Circeo

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Spaghetti alla carbonara is probably my favorite pasta dish. It has such simple ingredients – eggs, pancetta, butter – yet it is so rich and tasty. I love it made with fresh pasta because the pasta is more tender when you bite into it and the carbonara sauce clings better to it, whereas the dry pasta can be a little slippery and the sauce slides right off of it.

Lasagna

This is a recipe for delicious homemade lasagna. It takes a while to put together, especially if you don’t have tomato sauce that’s already made, but it’s worth it! I sometimes use oven-ready lasagne when I’m in a hurry. I know it’s a sacrilege(!) to Italians but sometimes I just don’t have the time to boil regular lasagne sheets.

La Befana and the Feast of the Epiphany

One of the great Christmas traditions in Italy is the Feast of La Befana which is celebrated on January 6, the 12th day of Christmas
, also known as the Epiphany and the Feast of the Three Kings. It is just as important to the Italians as Christmas itself. Many towns hold parades and festivals, along with bonfires to burn away bad memories of the old year; panettone and focaccia is eaten along with a glass of mulled wine.

Legend has it that the three Kings, on the night between the 5th and 6th of January, went to visit the baby Jesus. They walked all night carrying presents with them. They became lost and knocked on the door of an old woman’s house, the house of La Befana.

Baked Ham

This is an easy recipe for baked ham using a canned, boneless, fully cooked ham. Unlike with other baked ham recipes, I don’t cover it with aluminum foil; this way the outside of the ham develops a burnt crust, which we usually all try to grab when I put it on the table! To make the gravy, I use a jar or can of pork gravy, usually Heinz Homestyle Pork Gravy, along with beer or wine, but you can also use chicken gravy or make your own from scratch.